Harry Edwards (FCG WhiteAvon)

Following the morning discussion at Groundswell 2026 on scaling regenerative agriculture, I returned to the “Big Top” for one of the most anticipated sessions of the day: Dr Chris van Tulleken – Ultra-Processed Food Systems: The Most Urgent Threat to Human and Planetary Health.

The presentation reinforced something that many of us in agriculture have recognised for some time: the conversation about farming is no longer just about how we produce food, but about what kind of food our system is designed to produce.

As a nation, and increasingly as a global population, we have become heavily reliant on ultra-processed foods. The evidence linking these products to poor physical and mental health continues to grow, yet our food system still incentivises their production and consumption. Dr van Tulleken highlighted the alarming rise in childhood obesity and questioned whether we are truly measuring the real cost of the food we eat. The financial price paid at the supermarket checkout bears little resemblance to the wider costs absorbed by society through poor health, environmental degradation and pressure on public services.

The flow of money through the food chain was another striking point. While multinational food companies generate significant profits, only a small proportion of that value finds its way back to the farm gate. Farmers remain price takers, while much of the value created within the food system is captured further up the supply chain.

This naturally raises an important question: what is the purpose of our food system? Is its primary objective to produce nutritious food that supports healthy communities, or has it evolved into a commercial system designed to maximise consumption and shareholder returns?

It is not a question with an easy answer, but it is one that deserves far greater public debate.

I am generally cautious about increased government intervention, but there is a compelling argument that government has a role to play in reshaping incentives. Creating both the “carrot” and the “stick” may be necessary to encourage healthier consumer choices while encouraging food manufacturers to reformulate products and reduce reliance on ultra-processed ingredients. That transition will inevitably involve compromise and cannot happen overnight. 

The answer, once again, comes back to education.

Education must begin within agriculture itself, but it also needs to reach schools, families and consumers. Greater understanding of food production, seasonality, nutrition and greenwashing would enable people to make better-informed decisions. Simply exporting emissions overseas while claiming environmental progress is not a sustainable solution, nor is expecting consumers to navigate increasingly complex food choices without the knowledge to interpret them.

The discussion also highlighted the wider challenge facing government. Successive administrations have spoken about improving healthcare, raising living standards and strengthening education, yet all of these ambitions ultimately depend on a resilient economy. Farming and food production should form one of the foundations of that resilience, particularly at a time of increasing geopolitical uncertainty and climate volatility.

Food security is frequently discussed, but perhaps equal attention should be given to water security. Farmers are uniquely placed not only to produce food but also to store carbon, improve soil health and manage water across the landscape. Healthy soils with improved organic matter increase water infiltration during heavy rainfall while retaining moisture during prolonged dry periods. As climate extremes become more common, the role of farmers in managing water resources may become every bit as important as the food they produce.

Groundswell once again demonstrated that agriculture sits at the centre of many of society’s biggest challenges—from public health and environmental resilience to economic prosperity and national security. If we are serious about creating healthier people and healthier landscapes, then farming cannot simply be viewed as another industry. It must be recognised as a strategic national asset, producing not only food, but many of the public goods upon which the country’s future resilience depends.

Having immersed myself in Groundswell over the past three years, it is easy to become swept up in the conversations, ideas and connections with like-minded people who share a passion for food and farming—and who often have the financial means to make different purchasing decisions. However, one of the biggest challenges for our industry is ensuring that these conversations do not remain within an echo chamber. The real measure of success will be when every family, regardless of income or where they live, has access to affordable, nutritious food and is empowered to make healthy food choices. Only then will the principles discussed at Groundswell have truly moved beyond the conference field and into everyday life.

If you would like to discuss this further, please contact Harry Edwards at harryedwards@fcgagric.com or your local FCG office.